The job starts with choosing the right primer. It applies to both new wooden floors and refinished ones that are decades old. Learn the differences between eight popular finishes.
Then, choose the best one for your project.
You’ve picked the perfect hardwood for your floor. It’s a deep, rich walnut, warm cherry, or rustic oak. There are many types of hardwood floors. Each has its own look and feel.
They all have one thing in common: they need a finish to look their best.
However, choosing the right finish for a new wood floor, or a less wear-resistant plank, can be daunting. Hardwood floors vary in ease, durability, and gloss.
Gloss is a key aesthetic concern when choosing a wood you like. Below are the basics of the eight most popular hardwoods. They will help you choose a floor.
Water-Based Polyurethane.
Ideal for: Floors that need a quick-drying clean finish
Pros: Easy to apply and clean. Low odor and low volatile organic compounds. Very smooth and glossy finish. Not yellow.
Cons: High gloss water-based polyurethane will magnify any scratches.
Water-based polyurethane may look milky in the box. But, it dries clear and won’t yellow over time. Most homeowners prefer a high-gloss, water-based polyurethane sealant.
But, you’ll also find satin and semi-gloss options. Water-based polyurethane is a very durable finish. It resists moisture but wipes up spills quickly. It is made from synthetic resins and plasticizers.
Otherwise, hardwood floors are easy to take care of with this finish—usually, all you need is a broom and a wet mop. Never wax polyurethane floors as this may darken the finish.
These properties make water-based polyurethane a top finish for hardwood floors. Waterborne polyurethanes are also eco-friendly.
They release far fewer VOCs than many other options. There is a slight smell when used, which is a big plus if you plan to finish the floor yourself. It dries quickly too.
You usually need to wait two to four hours between coats. Three to four total coats are usually recommended. After that, you can walk to the new floor in a few hours. But, you must wait at least 48 hours to get all the furniture back in place.
Oily Polyurethane.
Best for: High-traffic areas
Pros: Not too expensive. Very durable; moisture resistant. Easy to maintain
Disadvantage: slow drying. Releases many VOCs. Flammable; yellows over time
Oil-based polyurethane consists of linoleum, synthetic resin, and plasticizer. Its durability makes it a popular finish for commercial properties.
But, many homeowners also like to use it in high-traffic areas of their homes. Fortunately, these same durability features mean you don’t have to finish floors as often as some other options.
It’s easy to maintain – just wipe or vacuum regularly, then wipe off the dirt with a damp sponge.
Oil-based polyurethane has a light golden tint. It will be yellow over time. It will add a warm amber hue to floors if that’s your goal. You will discover it in reflexive, semi-glossy, and glossy silk finishes.
This finish has a very strong smell and emits many VOCs. If you plan to finish the floor yourself, wear a respirator to protect your lungs. You’ll need to spend more time on the project.
Also, clean with mineral spirits, not soap and water, than with water-based polyurethane. Typically, each coat takes 8 to 10 hours to dry (usually 2 to 3 coats in total).
After that, wait at least 48 hours before walking on the floor with your shoes. It takes four days to fill the room with furniture again.
Moisture – Polyurethane Treatment.
Best for: When the hardest floor finish is required
Pros: very durable
Cons: Very high VOCs. difficult to implement
Moisture-cured polyurethane, originally for bowling balls, is very hard and durable when dry. It also achieves a high gloss. Resistant to moisture, scratches, stains, and general abrasion.
However, its difficult application makes it not an option for people who do it themselves. Also, its high volatile organic compounds can stay in the air for weeks.
So, all household members must move for up to two weeks after use.
As the name suggests, moisture-curing polyurethane hardens by drawing moisture from the air. So, it is affected by humidity on the day of use.
If the air is too dry, the finish will not harden or dry evenly. Very damp and may start to dry before spreading evenly on the floor. Uniform application of this unstable finish requires quick hands and experienced touch.
Moisture-cured polyurethanes are mainly used in commercial sites. These include bowling alleys, dance halls, and restaurants.
They are better at resisting abrasion, moisture, and wear. They also have a superior glossy finish.
Wax Floor Finish.
Best for: Anywhere you want a low gloss finish
Pros: Easy to apply and apply. Low odor or volatile organic compounds. Penetrates wood and can bind to stains. It dries quickly and can be walked on within a few hours of application
Cons: The app is labor-intensive. Not entirely durable; yellows or obscures over the long run.
Before the 1960s, wax was the top choice for hardwood floor finishes. It had been for hundreds of years until polyurethane finishes were invented.
It is still a popular choice for historic buildings. DIYers often choose it for its low-gloss, natural look. You will find liquid wax and paste. Both require many layers to be polished by hand.
But, liquid waxes are usually applied with a wool applicator. Paste waxes are applied with a cloth. You can even paint the floors by mixing wood stains with wax when finished.
Waxed hardwood floors, on the other hand, do not produce a very durable finish. Exposure to water can produce white marks, so wax is not the best floor finish for a bathroom or kitchen.
It also gets scratched, although it can easily peel off and hide under another layer of wax.
Keep in mind that wax can sometimes yellow or darken over time, so it’s best to use it on wood that’s already hot cast. If you replace the wax finish with polyurethane, you must fully remove the wax from the floor.
Shellac Floor Finish.
Best for: Flooring where you want a natural product that doesn’t release many VOCs and dries quickly
Pros: Natural, sustainable products. Easy to service or touch; adheres well to oily tropical woods.
Disadvantages: Highly flammable. Not easy to spread evenly; far less durable than many other options. Must be freshly mixed before application.
Shellac is a mix of denatured alcohol and lac bug secretions. These Asian insects have been used for centuries to seal and modify wood.
Shellac dries naturally to an orange hue and a glossy finish. It can be bleached, painted, or mixed with more denatured alcohol for a matte finish. Shellac dries so quickly that it is hard to apply. It leaves noticeable lines on the knees.
This hardwood floor finish soils and smudges easily. It is also vulnerable to damage from alcohol and ammonia. It can barely withstand foot movement like polyurethane but is easy to touch.
Just apply a fresh coat of shellac when needed.
You can pour wax over shellac, but not a polyurethane finish. If you want to change your floor’s finish, you must remove the shellac completely.
Penetrating Oil Seal.
Ideal for: Creates a low-gloss finish that accentuates the wood grain.
Pros: Natural product. Easy to apply; highlights the beauty of the wood
Cons: Not very durable. It needs to be repainted every two years; expensive
Before the 1960s, penetrating oil seals were popular. They fell out of favor after polyurethane floor sealants were introduced.
Some homeowners still prefer oils to enhance the texture and beauty of their floors.
The wood does not add a high sheen or sheen. It’s also a great option if you’re renovating a historic home.
Penetrating oils – there are several types, but tung oil is the most common. It penetrates the wood’s pores and helps prevent scratches and damage.
Unlike most hardwood floor finishes, penetrating oil does not leave a hard “crust” on the wood. For this reason, a final coat of wax is usually applied over the oil for extra protection.
Penetrating oil seals make wood look natural. But, they don’t resist foot traffic. If you choose this option, be ready to re-grease your floors every three to five years.
Water and chemicals can detect or damage oiled floors. So, use a wood floor cleaner made for this type of finish. However, if your hardwood floors are scratched, they are easy to touch. Just pour more oil on the damaged area.
Penetrating oils usually dry very slowly – it usually takes a full day to apply a layer – so it’s not a quick task on your own.
Acid Hardening Treatment.
Ideal for: Exotic wooden floors or complex designs such as parquet floors
Pros: Very durable. Quick dry
Cons: Very high VOCs. Very flammable; expensive; only supports applications
The best hardwood floor finishes are acid-hardened ones. They are also known as Swedish or conversion finishes.
They are more durable than polyurethane. It is alcohol-based. It uses acid in the hardening process. This creates a glossy, durable finish. It resists chemicals, scratches, and abrasions.
However, the finish accentuates the color, texture, and natural beauty of the wood.
Before you choose its durability, know that acid-hardened finishes emit very high VOCs and have a strong odor. If you use it, you, your family, and your pet will need to stay elsewhere for a few days while the floor matures.
It also requires good ventilation during application, as well as a full-face mask ventilator. Once applied, hardened floors are tough to touch or refinish with acid. But, their durability means you shouldn’t worry about damage in most normal conditions.
Alumina Floor Finish
Ideal for: High-traffic areas or where you want maximum protection from wear and tear
Pros: Hardest, longest type of finish. Low maintenance; available in various gloss levels
Cons: Difficult to complete or finish. For prefabricated planks only
Alumina is a natural mineral. It makes a tough, protective coating for hardwood floors. It protects floors from scratches, fading, water stains, and wear.
It does this without changing the wood’s color or hiding its grain. It is available in a variety of glosses and can be made matte or shimmery as desired. However, you won’t implement it yourself. Alumina is only available as an option for prefab floors.
If you want to fix the damage or change the finish, it is hard to remove or restore the aluminum oxide finish. You’ll need to call in a professional to handle the task and possibly even replace the floor.
For the most durable, low-maintenance hardwood floor finish, choose aluminum oxide. It lasts up to 25 years. It also suits you if you want ready-to-use, pre-finished wood floors.
The Best Guide to Home Wood Finish is another article you can read to learn about wooden finishes.
Conclusion
In conclusion, selecting the right wooden floor finish is essential for enhancing the beauty and durability of your hardwood flooring.
Whether you prefer the quick-drying properties of water-based polyurethane, the rich amber hue of oil-based finishes, or the timeless appeal of wax, each option offers distinct advantages.
Consider factors such as durability, maintenance, and aesthetic preferences when choosing a finish. With proper care, the right finish will not only protect your hardwood floors but also bring out their natural beauty for years to come.